Forty-six years ago, when I was but a sprout,
Captain Bob took another kid and I for our earliest ocean adventure. I
was eight years old, Clark Smith was nine, and the salt among us was ten.
We all lived on the Logging Road in Cape Neddick Maine, which was about
six miles from Perkins Cove in Ogunquit. We would travel over the Pine
Hill Road, maneuvering through a million potholes with sections of quick
sand mud, passing the few lonesome houses sown within the wooded surroundings.
In those days all the roads were dirt except US#1 which was concrete slabs.
It was no big problem in that era before computers, video games, and X
box, to hop on our bikes and peddle ten or twenty miles in a day to enjoy
some exciting activity. We all had the stout, fat tire, single speed bikes
with broad handlebars that weighed about fifty pounds each. Those bikes,
all American made, would withstand any amount of misuse a kid might administer.
I know we all rode hard and often put our bikes away wet. Despite such
abuse, many are still collecting dust in the old folk’s garage, awaiting
our return.
It was fascinating to hang out in the Cove
back then. The foot trail wooden drawbridge we had to cross from the Pine
Hill approach was hand cranked back then. It was usually only hoisted for
sailboats as most of the lobster boats cleared it just fine. We often lingered
at the midpoint of the bridge and watched the boats heading out the channel
or returning with a catch. The Cove, back then was a fishermen’s place
that tolerated a fair population of resident artists and a small but precariously
emergent summer tourist throng. There was a solitary restaurant, which
was open late spring through early fall and sold hot dogs, steamed clams,
boiled lobster, and pop. There was no asphalt pavement anywhere in the
Cove during those bygone days. The portion which is today a parking area
for the nearly year round tourist traffic, was previously a general work
and storage area for the fishermen. In that wind swept open salt grass
meadow, many lobster traps were stacked awaiting the next trip to sea.
From this vista the artist would craft his seascape of the rocky Oar Weed
Cove or the Marginal Way footpath above the rocks misted in salt spray
from waves crashing below. Opposite the ocean side was the tranquil view
of moored lobster boats, punts tied to the dock. Perhaps a crusty fisherman
hoisting a wooden barrel of salted fish racks, and then lowering the preferred
lobster bait on board a grubby craft named after some favored female.
After a big blow at sea the fishermen would bring in huge twisted masses
of traps, buoys, and warp, which they would all pick away at in an effort
to salvage what gear was theirs. An artist working from the trunk of his
car, a whole winters effort on display. Big stacks of lobster traps, and
balls of tangled gear, that’s my memory of the area that is now a parking
lot surrounded by restaurants and yuppie boardwalks. I was lucky to grow
up when and where I did, for I now can reminisce back to that setting as
described. What has developed is a poor surrogate for the raw splendor
of antiquity with its culture and native industry all but lost.
It was the unwritten rules of the Cove, that
all fishermen would each provide a punt (small boat) to get back and forth
to their moored lobster boats. It was common that anyone might borrow someone
else’s punt if more than one was needed, yours was out for repair, or someone
was presently using yours. All the punts were tied to rocks or pilings,
but never chained and locked, as that would be an affront to everyone else
in the Cove. Fishermen did usually take their oar home with them daily.
I say oar in the singular as they only used one and mind you it’s an oar
not a paddle. Only a highlander from some inland fresh water lake would
show up with a paddle. True fishermen do not row to their moored vessel,
but instead stand up at the square end of the punt and through a technique
called sculling drag their punt backwards to destination. Fishermen were
always good to the next generation coming on. Those salty old seadogs would
help us youngsters with our cuss words, and let us in on dirty jokes long
before we could get the meaning. Sometimes we didn’t figure things out
until we checked with the older kids in the back seat of the school bus.
I suspect it must have been entertaining for the fishermen to see young
kids playing on the waters edge. They never seemed to mind when one or
more would find an old board, borrow a punt, and paddle around the Cove.
On this particular day of my recollection,
Captain Bob suggested we take our hand lines and head for Perkins Cove
to try and catch some flounder from the channel embankment. The lengthy
but insignificant bike ride was behind us without challenge as we entered
the restaurant to buy some live clams for bait. There was undeniably much
more tolerance for kids back then and we tested it on this particular day.
The man at the restaurant waited good-naturedly while we hand picked thirty-six
live clams. We debated the merits of each clam, and then paid the invoice
in pennies. Although we anticipated fishing from shore it was decided we
could reach the hot spot most easily from the water. We scouted the seaweed
and flotsam piled on the water’s edge and came up with two pieces of board,
which would serve as paddles. With a manifest of all required items on
board, we cast off. With brother Bob as our Captain we charted a course
with high hopes for a bountiful harvest. An honest effort at the destination
in our original plan did not provide the anticipated catch. At this critical
juncture in the development of a fishing Captain, Bob says, “Ain’t no fish
here I know a better spot.” We moved from spot to spot but Captain
Bob never lost confidence or his resolve. In due course we had made our
way past the channel markers and continued on to the bell buoy in the open
ocean. The waves were larger than that little punt had ever suffered before,
however our total lack of experience protected us from apprehension. A
pea soup fog was settling in and the humidity was carrying a chill. We
decided to stay mid way between the two bell buoys, smack dab in the traffic
lane of the channel. The fish weren’t cooperating yet the clams kept slipping
the hook. Bob was at the bow, I sat amid ship, and Clark was in the stern
with the bait. We all faced forewords. For sometime we had been acknowledging
our hunger and were getting cold, still no one suggested we quit. I asked
Clark for some bait where upon he replied, “ It’s all gone.” Bob and I
knew that couldn’t be and both looked around as Bob said, “What happened
to all the bait?” Clark said, “I ate it.” An icy shudder went through me
follower by uncontrolled pucking, first breakfast, then something from
the day before and a long gagging session of dry heaves. At the first heave
from me, Clark proved that he had indeed eaten the bait by blowing all
over my back. Captain Bob chimed in with some chum of his own. Soon we
were all so sea sick that we lost equilibrium and the ability to focus
our eyes. Captain Bob instinctively knew what to do in our moment of crisis.
“Everyone paddle toward the sound of that bell buoy, we need to get out
of the center of the channel before a boat hits us in this fog.” Too the
buoy we went, and the last service Captain Bob provided was to tie us fast
were we stayed until a passing lobster fisherman hooked on to us and brought
us in. The loud and incessant clank of that channel marker bell only increased
our agony, as we lay in the bottom of the punt covered in chuck and unable
to focus our eyes or balance our heads. It was a longer than usual ride
home on our bikes. I must proclaim, I did not feel so unpleasant again
until I was old enough to illegally drink alcohol.
Captain Bob is still taking Charters after
all these years. He can still find the hot spots and still get you back
in. Check out Captain Bob’s Web page at www.leathalweaponfishing.com. Lots
of good pictures of recent charters and catch, plus all the information
you need before you call or e-mail for your adventure on the ocean with
the true salt of the sea. |